Calvin klein: mararamiro evanhu

Zvichida munhu wese anozviremekedza aine mafashoni ane muvharobe yake zvimwe chinhu chimwe kubva kumugadziri, uyo anogadzira zvipfeko pasi pezita rimwechete rainzi Calvin K lein. Zvipfeko zvechirongwa ichi nguva dzose zvave chiri nhanho imwe mberi kwemafashoni emafashoni, izvo zvakabvumira kuti zvigadzirire mafashoni pachako. Asi chii chakabudirira nyaya yomuumbi uyu akachenjera? Tichataura pamusoro peizvi munyaya yemazuva ano "Calvin K lein: nhoroondo yechiratidzo."

November 19, 1942 muUnited States of America, iyo iri muguta rakakurumbira reNew York, yakaberekerwa Kelvin Klein. Baba vaKelvin vaiva muridzi wechitoro chiduku. Ndichionga mbuya vangu, Kelvin vakadzidza kuchera pamushoni wokucheka, amai vangu vakabatsira kuita mukana usina kunaka, vaigara vachienda kumazvitoro ezvokugadzirira uye vanogadzira pamwe chete. Mukomana uyu aivepo nguva dzose paaitaura nezvemavara nemafashoni. Kelvin Klein anotaura kuti pa5 akarota nezvemangwana rekugadzira mafashoni. Nokudaro, akanga asina chakanaka chekudzidza uye kupi kwaaizoenda kuchikoro.

Pakati pezvakanakisisa zvaakapedza kubva ku Higher School of Art. Zvadaro muna 1960 kusvika muna1962 akapinda uye akadzidza pa Technological Institute of Fashion. Mukufananidza neongororo dzake, Calvin aiita mu studio, kwaakabatsira kuita micheka. Mushure mokunge aifanira kushanda nevarimi vakawanda uye kunyange kutora mifananidzo yevanopfuura-mumigwagwa. Ichi chiitiko chakanga chiri chechiitiko ichi, sezvo chakanga chisina kuuya nemari yakawanda. Manheru ehurukuro Calvin anobata nekugadzirwa kwepodfolio yake.

Nhoroondo yeiyo yakatanga muna 1968, apo Kelvin neshamwari yake yekare Barry Schwarz vakaronga Calvin Klein, Ltd muNew York. Barry akapa mari, uye Kelvin nguva dzose akanga asina pfungwa imwe chete yakasara. Klein akaita boka rake rokutanga uye akasarudza kuisa muhotera pane imwe yepasi. Rimwe zuva, mutungamiriri we-boutique, iyo iri pasi pasi kumusoro, akavhiringidza mabhodhi ari muhovho ndokusvika pasi pasi apo maenzaniso akaratidzwa. Kokorodzano yeKelvin yakashamisa bhizinesi zvakanyanya zvokuti akasarudza kuisa pakarepo chirongwa chemakumi mashanu emadhora. Nokuti Kelvin Klein yakanga iri kusvetuka mufashoni yake yepasi, zita rake rakava rakakurumbira, uye saka kuzvimirira kwakabuda.

Klein akatanga basa re studio yake nekokuunganidza zvekunze kwevarume, asi zvishoma nezvishoma vakatora mhando yezvokufuka zvevakadzi. Mumakore makumi manomwe, akazarura sutu yemurume kuti ave mukadzi. Muna 1970, Calvin akasunungura chipfeko chakafukidzika kaviri kechifuva nemakumbo marefu, kana, anonzi PeaCoat (pea coat). Iyi mienzaniso yakave yakave yakagadzirwa zvakapedzisira yakawanda yemwaka, uye zvakare, yakashongedzwa kwemakore gumi anotevera.

Kelvin muna 1973 akagamuchira mubairo "Kochi" pakusikwa kwezvinhu zvakanatswa uye zvakanyatsogadzirwa. Saka ndiye aiva muumbi wechidiki mumufananidzo wefashoni kuti agamuchire mubairo uyu.

Uye muna 1974, muumbi wacho akagadzira mutsva wekushongedza mbatya nezvimwe zvinhu. Nenguva isipi, akaneta nokufamba nenzira yakanaka, uye Klein akasarudza kugadzirira "kutanga" kwake, izvo zvakashamisa zvachose nyika yose yefashoni pamwe neAmerica tsika dzevanhu. Pakupedzisira, 1978 yakaratidzwa nekubudiswa kwejekoni jeans, uye pano muumbi akazova wekutanga. Nezvokupfeka zvinoonekwa zuva rega rega uye zvisingadhuri zvakakwana, akazvipa sezvokupfeka zvechimiro chakanaka uye chechifashoni. Iyo yakagadzirwa zvakanaka yakanyatsorondedzerwa nemufananidzo uye yakasimbisa kusimbisa pamakumbo uye akareba, makumbo aCalvin Klein uye Omega akaiswa pahomwe yakadzoka.

Kelvin akasarudza kuita chiziviso chinokuvadza. Uye saka, muna 1980, muumbi ane rubatsiro rwemufananidzo weBruce Weber akagadzira chikwangwani chekuratidza jeans neBrooke Shields, chakazova chiratidzo chepabonde uye movie star. Zvadaro muAmerica kukanganisa kwakapera, Klein akapomerwa kuti aishandisa vana, uye kupururudzwa kwakanzi kwave pedyo nekuona zvinonyadzisira. Kubvisa jeans kubva pakugadzirwa kwezvinhu, kukanganisa kwakabviswa, uye kambani yakakwanisa kudzokera kumhando yekare yekare asi muna 1998.

Muna 1982, Klein akagadzira chitsva chitsva, chaiva nemapurasitiki evanhu, izvo zvaisanganisira boka guru reCorset neCalvin Klein brand logo. Mune basa remhando yekutengesa zvipfeko, supermodel D. West uye rapper M. Mark vakasarudzwa, uye hafu-yakashama muviri wevarume yakava yekutanga yekuti munhu ave nemafungiro akanaka. Klein akataura kuti akasika ganda rekugadzira vanhu kuti vashande.

Mumakore makumi mapfumbamwe nemapfumbamwe, muumbi wacho akaisa pfungwa pakuvandudza nekugadzirwa kwe jeans nemapurasitiki. Kuparidzira hakuna kupfuura pasina zvinokanganisa, izvo zvatova chikamu chemufananidzo wegadziri. Klein aifanira kubhadhara mari yakanaka yemamiriyoni emadhora, akaisa chechi yacho pakadhi "The Last Supper kubva Klein." Akange ane nhoroondo yebhaibheri inonyatsozivikanwa, asi mhando dzayo dzakanga dziri mu jeans uye nehafu-isina muviri.

Muna 1992, Kelvin zvakare akashamisa America. Gore rino akaumba jaya rutsva rutsva "unisex", iyo yakazove yakakurumbira zvikuru. Zvadaro, sechishambadziro, chipositori chine muenzaniso wechidiki Kate Moss uye murevereri M. Mark vakasunungurwa. Zvipfeko neCalvin Klein logo zvingave zvakapfekedzwa nevaduku vese zvepabonde, pfungwa iyi yakagamuchirwa nekubudirira kukuru.

Muna 1999, mugadziri, nokuda kwemazuva empteenth, akakuvadza mutsva pamwe nekudhinda. Klein akabudisa musangano mutsva waimiririra zvepurasitiki zvevana, uyewo zvepurasitiki zvevechidiki. Mifananidzo nevana vaifungidzirwawo kuti haibatsiri. Somugumisiro, muumbi akakumbira ruregerero, uye kuparidzira kwacho kwakamiswa kuitira kuti pakanga pasisina mhosva dzakaoma.

Bhizinesi rakanga riri munzira yayo, uye klein yaive isingasarwi nediki duku studio, asi yakashandurwa kuva umambo hwemamiriyoni evanhu, gore rinouya rezve madhora mabhiriyoni mashanu. Izvo zvakashambadzira kutengesa uye mutemo zvakagadzira mufananidzo wakajeka, masangano akanyatsopindira kupinda pasi pevatengi. Kakawirirana uye zvinokanganisa nguva nenguva zvakabatsira kugadzira nekuchengetedza chimiro chekuparidzira, chirevo chazvo chakanga chiri chakanaka, wechiduku uye zvepabonde. Kelvin Klein anofungidzirwa kuti ndiye wekutanga kugadzira vanhu "kubva kumusoro kusvika kune imwe," mumakokora ake pane zvipfeko uye zvigadzirwa. Vachizvigadza ivo muU.SA uye nyika dzeEurope, mumakore makumi mapfumbamwe nematanhatu kambani yakatanga kutamira kumabvazuva, mabhotique akazarurwa muKaititi, Jakarta neHong Kong.

Klein akakurumidza kuita maererano nekuchinja kwemafashoni emitambo munyika, izvo zvakamubatsira kuti abudirire kubudirira. Pakutanga kwezana remakumi maviri nemazana makumi maviri nemazana matanhatu, akavaka gungano idzva mumutauro we "mauto". Nenguva isipi muumbi akabudisa jasi-jasi, jirasi-mabheji, maketi kusvika kumabvi e khaki.

Mukuwedzera kune zvipfeko, Calvin akabudisa zvinonhuwira zvakawanda, chimwe nechimwe chaisanganisira vose varume nevakadzi kunhuwa. Muna 1983 yakaonekwa "Eternity", muna 1985 - "Obsession", uye muna 1986 - "Otdushina". Midzimu inosimbisa chimiro chakaoma chepfeko, ichiri kubudirira kukuru, saka vane zvakawanda zvefake. Muna 1998, kunhuwirira "Kurwisana" kwakabudiswa, iyo yakazopedzisira yave yakakurumbira, uye yakaverengwa kune vanhu vari kurarama nezvinetso zvavo pachavo.