Nhoroondo yezvinonhuwira zveRussia yakatanga, sezvavanotaura, "nezvehutano". Vatengesi vekunze kune dzimwe nyika, avo vakanga vasina ruzivo rwakanyanya kunyika yavo, vakatamira kuRussia, kwavakaputirwa nesimba uye huru. Hungu, uye rechiRussia "nenyuchi", kubudirira kubudza kune dzimwe nyika kana kushanda sevadzidzi, "vakapa" nyika yavo mazano avo: Russian perfumery - zvinonhuwira zvakagadzirwa zvakanyanya. Pakuguma kweXIX - kutanga kwezana remakore rechi20, mazita aA A. Ferrein akaputika munyika yose, uye vatengesi veImperial Court - A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle na A. Siu - vakanga vasingazivi muRussia chete, asiwo kune dzimwe nyika. Saka, Alexander Ostroumov akave akakurumbira pakugadzira sese kubva kune dandruff, uye gare gare akazarura fesheni yake yezvinonhuhwirira.
Izwi rakakurumbira "mhino" Alfons Ralle yakapa zvinonhuwira zveRussia - zvinonhuhwirira zvinonhuhwirira kwete kwete chete kuMutongi weNyika, asiwo kuna Mambo Wake Shah wePersia uye Wake Wekumusoro Prince Chernogorsky. Simba rake rakagamuchira State Emblem yeRussia kanane - mubayiro wakakwirira kwazvo, wakapa mukana wepamusoro wezvigadzirwa. Yaiva pafekitari "A. Ralle naCo "yakatanga sevabhoriyiti mubatsiri Ernest Bo (munyori weChanel akakurumbira Nhamba 5). Dai zvisiri zvekuvandudza kwakaita kuti munhu ane tarenda anobva kune imwe nyika aende, aizotora nzvimbo yemutungamiri wekambani, uye hazvizivikanwi kuti chii chaizove kugadzirisa kwe "nyika yemafuta". Imwe kadhi yehwamanda inotanga kushanduka Russian perfumery - Heinrich Brokar. Iyi "yeputi" yevabereki inowanikwa muFrance. Achisvika muRussia, akazarura bhizinesi rake uye pakutanga akatanga kubereka kwete mafuta, asi sero inonhuhwirira. Vakawanda mubasa rake, Henry anokwereta mudzimai wake - Charlotte. Ndiye mai vakamukurudzira kuti akunde-kukunda sarudzo: kutengesa sipu "chipo" shoma (yeusingajairika) - yakagadzirwa nebhokisi uye ine mabhii akanyorwa. Brokarovskaya kutengesa kwave kushandiswa. Pakuvhura kweimwe yezvitoro iyo yakagadziriswa nevatengi "kutengeserana kwekutengeserana: chete ruble zvaikwanisika kutenga zvigadzirwa zvine gumi, izvo zvaisanganisira zvinonhuwira, cologne, lustrine, chimbuzi chevhiniga, vaseline, poda, chifukidzo, sachet, chikwata chemitsipa, sesefu. Mufaro wakanga wakaita zvokuti mapurisa aifanira kuvhara dhaka.
Chimwe chiziviso cheRussia zvinonhuhwirira - zvinonhuhwirira zvemiti - cologne "Flower" - yakazunungusawo yose yeMoscow. Panyaya yose yeRussia Industrial and Art Exhibition, "tsime" rakagadzirwa, umo mumwe munhu aigona kuvhara hochekiti, girafu uye kunyange nejasi jasi. Iko pfungwa yakazobudirira kwazvo zvokuti "Flower" yakava yekutanga kuRussia kuwanda kwechigodhi. Apo Duchekeri Mukuru Maria Aleksandrovna akauya kuMoscow kuzoshanyira, Brokar akamupa nemucheka weax maruva - roses, maruva emupata, violets, daffodils. Uye ruva rimwe nerimwe rakaputirwa nekunhuhwirira kwakafanana. Akayemura Maria Aleksandrovna akapa munhu anonhuwira zvinonzi zita rake rekupa mutengesi.
Iyo "Brokar uye Co" ushamwari yakakura zvakanyanya zvokuti mafuta eRussia ainzi "Brokar Empire", uye zvinonhuwira zvayo zvakatengesa kutengesa kunyika dzakawanda dzeEurope. Pamitambo yakasiyana-siyana yenyika dzakawanda, firitori yakagamuchira masirivha gumi negoridhe, yakava mutengesi kwete chete yeRussia Imperial Court, asiwo yeimba yeimba yeSpain, uye pabhokisi rekambani kwaive nezviratidzo zvehurumende zvitatu, zvichiratidza hukuru hwezvinhu.
Kana Brokar achitanga se sese, ipapo anonhuhwirira Adolf Siu - sekugadzirisa mavara nemakeke. Kuva nemari yakaisvonaka yakawanda kubva mubhizinesi rekutengesa, Siu akasarudza kuita zvinonhuwira uye akabudirira mubhizimisi rino raakatanga kutumira iyo Imperial Court kwete chete nemakeke ake, asi nemafuta. Zvinonhuwira zvake zvaive zvechikamu che "zvinonhuwira zvakakwirira" uye zvakanga zvisina kuwanikwa kune vose. Muchidimbu, mishonga yemafuta muRussia yekare isati yachinja. Uye gore ra1917 rakapera ...
Vanyori vekutanga kwezana remakore rechi20 nezvemhepo yaA. Ostroumov, Ekaterina Geltser, Bolshoi ballet dancer: "Pandinotamba mu" Corsair ", ndinogara ndichishandisa zvinonhuwira Violette ..." Elena Podolskaya, opera soloist: "Zvinonhuwira zvako" Zvakanaka "zvinondikomberedza , kuti, ndichivanyengedza, ndinofamba, sezvinorota maruva anonhuhwirira. " Raisa Reisen, mutevedzeri weMaly Theatre: "Kana Napoleon ainge achinzwa Nautileon ane njere, Josephine aisazombomutengesa."
Phoenix, yakaberekwazve kubva mumadota
Post-revolutionary Russia ... Pamusoro pehutungamiri: kubviswa kwebourgeois yose. Uye kusanganisira perfumery - iyo yakawanda bourgeois yebourgeois yose yekugadzira nzvimbo. Nyika itsva inofema utsi hwemafekitari, sweat rinoshanda soutano uye muviri wakachena. Varwi VemaGuru Dzvuku uye vanhu vanoda sopo chete - uye hapana chimwezve. Izvo zvose zvinosara zvebourgeois. Somugumisiro, mafekitari ose ezvinonhuwira akawana nhamba dzeodinal uye akachinjwa kuva sese-bins. Sangano Ralle rakava "Plant Soap State No. 4", uye gare gare - State Soap uye Cosmetic Factory "Svoboda". "Brokar" yakashandurwa kuva "sangano rehurumende uye mbeu yefragreri nhamba ye5" (gare gare mu "Zarya itsva"), "Siu" - mufekitari "Bolshevik", "Bodlo uye Co" - mufekitari "Dawn".
Munguva yeNNP nguva, kugadzirwa kwemafuta kwakatanga zvakare, asi munguva yemaStalin yakakurumidza kusvika pakuguma-zvisingakoshi. Mukadzi akakurumbira zvikuru weSoviet elite, "wechipiri mukadzi weU.SR", mudzimai waMolotov, Polina Zhemchuzhina, akabatana ne "kurwa" naStalin kumapurisa epamba. Akatsiva mutungamiriri wekutanga we "New Dawn" A. Zvezdov, akatamirwa kune imwe nzvimbo. Gare gare, Pearl yakanga ichitungamirirwa neTrust "Fatness", ichibatanidza mapefisi ose ezvinonhuwira uye anozora, uye makore akawanda gare gare akagadzwa mukuru weGeneral Directorate yezvinonhuwira, zvigadzirwa, zvekugadzira uye semboni. Yaiva Polina Zhemchuzhina akakwanisa kunyengetedza Stalin kuti asaparadza zvinonhuwira, akakwanisa kuratidza kuti "zvinonhuwira nzvimbo inokuvadza, inobatsira uye inonyanya kukosha kuvanhu". Uye akatoita kuti "baba vemarudzi" kupa "zvakanaka" kune zvinonhuwira zvemafuta anokosha. Saka rusenzi yeRussia yakawana yechipiri, upenyu hwakanaka.
Muna 1930, kushandiswa kweRussia zvinonhuwira - zvinonhuhwirira zvezvakagadzirwa uye kubudisa - mapurisa emafuta emafuta "Svoboda" uye "Bolshevik" zvakatorwa ne "New Dawn". Saka "Dawn Dawn" yakagamuchirwa chete pakugadzirwa kwemiti inonhuhwirira. Paiva nemamwe mafiritsi ezvinonhuwira mumasangano eUnited States, asi havana kutsanangura "futi yehupfu".
Pachirongwa chemafuta zvinonhuwira pakanga pane mubvunzo wakakomba: ungaita sei kuti mweya iratidze mutemo wepato? Yakashandiswa kunze kwekutonga kukuru: kukanganwa nezvakawanda zvemichero uye zvigadzirwa zvisina kujairika. Aromas inodiwa nevanhu vanobata, izvo zvinoreva kuti zvinofanira kunge zviri nyore, zvinonzwisisika uye "kusimbisa rudo rwevanaamai". Vanhu vazhinji nhasi vanocherechedza kuti mweya yeSoviet nguva yakanga yakaoma uye yakashata, uye palette yakaisvonaka yakaramba iri murombo.
Zvisinei, zvishoma nezvishoma, nhanho nhanho mishonga yemapurisa "yakakunda" nzvimbo dzakarasika. Kubva pa brokar "mabheji" akakanganwa mafuta, "mhuka" dzomukati dzakatorwa kuti dziongorore, nzvimbo ye "elite perfumery" yakagadzirwa. Phoenix yakaberekwazve kubva mumadota. Zvinonzwisisika, violin yekutanga yakatambidzwa ne "New Dawn", mweya wake waifarira mukurumbira wakawanda (zvakanaka, pakanga pasina makwikwi, uye zviitiko zvekune dzimwe nyika hazvina kurota neveSoviet vagari). Iyo kambani yakaratidza kunakidza kwayo pamitambo yepasi rose uye yakatogamuchira mhemberero dzakanaka. Nhasi, kambani inozivikanwa yemafuta - "Red Moscow", "Black Box", "Blue Casket", "Stone Flower" - inotengeswa sevashoma pamatengo emasina. Nzvimbo yeRussia inopisa zvinonhuwira yakabudirira, pamwe chete nebhizimisi chero ripi zvaro seri kwe "Iron Curtain" musingabatsiri makwikwi. Asi iye zvino imwe mheremhere yakabuda - dambudziko rezvemari, kupera kwekugadzirwa, kuputsika kweU.SR ...
Zvakare kubva pakatanga
Apo kubuda kweMiddle Western kwakadururirwa mumusika wemisika, makambani eRussia achibudisa rusenzi yeRussia - zvinonhuhwirira zvakasvibiswa hazvigone kumira mumakwikwi ndokuenda mumumvuri. Zvechokwadi, mushure mekupera kwekugadzirwa kwezvinhu, vatenzi veRussia vaifanira kutanga "kubva pakutanga" -kudzidza kubva kumavirazuva, kuti vayeuke "nzira dzekuru" uye kuedza kuvaka nzira yavo pachavo pamunda wakagadzirwa-perehozhennom wezvinonhuwira. Zvisinei, kudzorera zvekare mararamiro emhando yehuni hwemapurisa ndeyekuvonga basa. Zvigadzirwa zvakagadzirwa zana remakore rakapfuura uye zvakagadzirirwa chete pane zvishoma zviduku zvinokonzerwa nemasikirwo ezvisikwa, zvino zvisingashandisi uye "kutarisa", zvishoma, zvekare. Domestic chemical laboratories yakaderera kune vekuMadokero maererano nemidziyo uye haikwanisi kugadzira pakutanga zvakanatswa zvikamu. Mukuwedzera, zviwanda zvepamutemo zvisiri pamutemo zvinobudisa zvigadzirwa zvakaderera zvakagadzirwa, uye nhamba yakawanda yefake yakaonekwa. Somugumisiro, mutengi weRussia akazopedzisira avhiringidza kuvimba mune "mavara" emhando uye anosarudza kushandisa zvigadzirwa zvemakambani ekuMadokero. Nhasi, zvinonhuwira zvemukati zvakafanana nemwana asinganzwisisiki. Kusatendeseka kuedza kufarira mutengi kunoitwa ne "New Dawn", kana kuti, panzvimbo yake inotevera - "Nouvelle Etoile". Mafuta ekutanga pane dzimwe nguva anotya nemazita avo asingaiti. "Nguva yeMukadzi", "Mania yeusiku", "Yakanaka", "Shaman Charming", "The Life in the Pink", "Nditevere pausiku" - inonzwika zvakare sekusekwa. Mune zvimwe zvinonhuwira, nyanzvi dzinoti, "kunhuwa" kweMadokero midzimu kunonzwika: "Kuznetsk bridge" yakafanana neClimmat kubva kuLancome, "Russia beauty" - kuna Coco Mademoiselle kubva Chanel, "Talisman of love" - kuna Angel by Thierry Mugler. Izvo zvakagadziriswa zvepakiti nemabhodhoro - zvinotyisa uye zvisingafadzi - zvakanyanya kuderera kune zvisikwa zvekunze. Hungu, uye kushambadzira kunosiya zvakawanda zvingadiwa. Mune rimwe shoko, kana makambani epamba achisarudza kugadzirisa zvakare mutengi (uye marangi ekune dzimwe nyika anoronga kupfuura 60% yeRussia "inonhuhwirira" mumusika nhasi), kurwisana kwakaoma. Zvisinei, "yezana remakore rechitatu" reRussia zvinonhuhwirira zvinongotanga, uye, zvichida, richasvikazve kune zvikomo, izvo zvaro rakamboromoka.
NOUVELLE ETOILE
Haisi ikambani yekunze, asi yedu "New Dawn". Iyo kambani iri kushanda pamwe nevaFrench muchikwata kwemakore gumi, uye zvinonhuwira zvakawanda zvefekitari zviri kuumbwa muFrench laboratories. Kuenderera mberi kwakakodzera kwekubatana uku kwaiva kuvezve zvakare kambani.