Chikamu 1. Kushandisa acid mu cosmetology: hydroxy acids

Iko mune mishonga yekunakidza vanhu vasingadi nyaya dzakanzi "Zvepabonde uye Guta." Unogona kufungidzira nei? Iye zvino tava kuzorora patsva kwekurangarira kwechikamu chechishanu chechishanu chechishanu, uye iwe unonzwisisa chikonzero chekutsamwa kwavo. Imwe hanzvadzi inouraya Samantha yakanyoreswa muchechi yeBotox injections, uye chiremba akanaka akaratidza kuti aongorore kuti asidi inofungidzira, achiti muzwi revelvet: "Imwe nzira inogona kukurudzira iwe kwemakore 15-20." Somugumisiro, iyo blonde yakasiya kiriniki nehukuru hunopisa pachiso. Nhau inotyisa, huh? Munguva iyi, chiremba wezvokurapa sayanzvi Jeannette Graf anotaura kuti zvipfeko zvinokonzerwa nemasikironi muhukuru hwavo zvine ushamwari pamwe neganda - nokuti zvatove zvakasikwa zvakasvibiswa. Uye zvinhu zvavo zvakasiyana kwazvo: vamwe vari nani kudarika chero upi zvake wekutsvaira, vamwe vanopa ruzivo, vamwe vanosimbisa mabasa edziviriro epidermis uye inoipisa. Nokudaro kuti usangozviputira nechimwe chinhu chakasiyana zvakasiyana, usati watungamira pane zvinyorwa zvema acid, mukutsvaga mu cosmetology uye nezvinyanzwisisiro zvekushandisa kwavo. Oxyacids (ANA uye VNA)
Mhandara yemazuva ano inongoda kujeka - uye vasikana ava vanoita kuti ganda rivheneke uye pasina mamiriro ezvinhu rinogona kurondedzerwa sechinetso.

Chii chinonzi simba reacids
Edzai epidermis uye mupe ruzha rwehutano hwakanaka (zvakavanzika - mukubviswa kwemasero akafa), zvinokurudzira kugadzirwa kwe collagen (pano ndeyehuduku, sezvamunonzwisisa), kuvandudza ganda rekusunungura uye kubvisa kushandiswa kwemavara, uye kuita zvose kuti urege kumbosangana acne pachake.

Ndivana ani?
Pano takasarudza kutaura kamwechete pamusoro pemhando mbiri dzeAIDS: ANA uye VNA. Rega ndikutsanangurire uye ndikuudze kuti boka rimwe nerimwe rakadini. Zvose izvi makemikari anonyorwa ne organic biboxylic acids uye akaparadzaniswa maererano nemasikiramu akaumbwa: alpha (ANA) uye beta-hydroxy-acid (BHA). Kunyange zvazvo, pamwe nehombe, ivo vanosiyaniswa nehumwechete: yekutanga - tsamba A, yakasvibiswa mumvura, iyo yekupedzisira - yakawanda. Uye zvino tinoshandura: ANA-hydroxy acids inoshanda pane chero ganda, VNA-yakanakisisa yevose inoshamwaridzana nemafuta kana kusanganiswa.

Zvemitemo mabasa eAA
Iwe unonyora pasi kuti asidi inotarisa mu saloni: iwe unoziva, uri kumirira nzira yacho neAA-hydroxy acids. Unyanzvi hwavo hukuru ndeyekubvisa masefa akafa, uye zvichienderana nehutano kuita izvi vanogona pane zvakadzika zvakasiyana. Semuenzaniso, zuva rekrimu ane ANA, iyo yaunogara iwe pamba, inoshanda ne stratum corneum, chizoro, iyo yakashongedzerwa nekemikari ine 20% acid, ichasvika kusvika kumvura. Zvose mumutambo wekutanga uye wechipiri, alpha-hydroxy acids inenge inotevera inotevera: inoparadzirwa pakati pemasero eganda uye inodzingirira kunze yekare yakaoma kune iyo, iyo inopera yakachengeteka. Mukufananidza neanoita izvi, paunosangana nemishonga inoshanda, masero ari pakadzika anotanga kuratidza basa. Izvi zvinoshandawo kune fibroblasts inobereka collagen, iyo inobata huduku hwako.

Dosage
MuAAA-cream uye purier yako, mazamu eacid haafaniri kudarika 5-8%, nokuda kwekuchengetedza salon, chikumbaridzo chiri 20%. Kana iwe uchinge wawira mumaoko emupi wezvakanaka, kufungidzira kunogona kupa migumisiro pa-kuenda-kuenda inofananidzwa ne microdermabrasion: maduku maduku achabva, ganda rinenge rakaita sechitsva. Gara uchigutsikana nemigumisiro, enda kune asidi peels mwedzi mitatu kusvika kumitanhatu.

Unoda here chigadzirwa neAA kuti usakanganise? Gara mazano matatuzve:

1. Shandisa "asidi" kumucheto wakanga wakaoma - mvura inogadzirisa migumisiro yayo.
2. Edza kutenga zvinokonzera kana kuchenesa kubva kuAA mune pharmacy. Kune mikana yakawanda yekuwana michina nekumhanya kwakanaka kwezvinhu zvakasimba zvinoshanda.
3. Purogiramu yakanakisisa yekuchengetedza imba inofanira kunge iri: zuva rekrimu neanoshenesa neAA, uye usiku nekutarisa kweziso - pasina ivo.

Mabasa epamutemo weVNA
Pamberi pako, vakunda vanokudzwa vane chinetso cheganda. Aya aya ane comedonolytic uye anti-inflammatory properties. Pamusana pehupenyu hwavo, vanogona kutorwa zvakananga kumapurasi uye mvere dzemvere, apo vanobvisa kusvibiswa uye masero akafa uye vanouraya mabhakitiriya anomutsa shungu. Vamiririri vanozivikanwa zvikuru veboka rino - salicylic acid uye resorcin - unogona kuwana mukugadzirwa kweavo chero upi zvawo hwekugadzira kubva kune acne.

Dosage
Kana ganda rako riri mafuta, uye rinotonhora nekuputika, pasina kunonoka, enda kune vanochenesa ne salicylic zvakagadzirwa (0.5 kusvika 2%) uye resorcinol (1 kusvika ku3%). Nezvinetso zviri pachena nechiso, peels ne salicylic acid inoratidzwa. Itai izvi chete muimba yepamusoro, nokuti kuwanda kwezvinhu zvinoshanda pano zvichava zvakakomba, zvinogona kusvika, uye dzimwe nguva dzinopfuura 25%. Nzira yakadzika ndeyemashanu kusvika kune gumi nzira, kamwechete kwevhiki mbiri.

Uye unogona kamwe kamwe pavhiki kuita maskki ne 2% salicylic acid. Kwenguva yekutanga, chengetedza chigadzirwa pachiso chenyu kwete kweminiti uye rega nhasi kubva kune mari ne retinol.