Chisarudzo chekuenda kwevhiki yekuenda kuPrague chakasimuka kamwe, kubva pakushamisika handina kumbobvumirana nemakakatanwa anopikisana. Czech Republic saka Czech Republic, mushure mezvose, inyika itsva - sebhuku idzva rinofadza. Nemifananidzo. Vakuru, dzimwe nguva vanoora mwoyo, uye dzimwe nguva caramel-doll. Bhuku pamusoro pezvakavanzika zvakaenda kune zvakapfuura kare. Pane imwe nzvimbo pano, zvichida, pakanga panewo mapepa ekusikwa kwebwe refilosofi - rakanga risati riri rega izvo vashandi vezvinyorwa, vafumi vezvakanaka uye vazivi venyeredzi vaida guta racho zvakanyanya. Vanodawo vanyori, vachizvitsaurira mazana nemazana emapepanhau kumhepo inoshamisa yeCzech capital. Nokudaro chisarudzo changu chokuzvipira kupedza vhiki yevhiki ndoga naPrague chave nechinangwa chikuru.
Kupera kwevakafa vezvinyorwa.
Sezviri pachena, shongwe iyi yakakwirira kumusoro kwangu ine dambudziko Daliborka, rakatsanangurwa nemunyori anozivikanwa wemunyori anonzi Gustav Mayekin mubhuku rinonzi Walpurgis Night. (Kazhinji aifarira kunhuwa, kusanganisa nhoroondo dzenharaunda yekare pasina kutanga uye kuguma, izvo ivo, zvakare, vakava nhau - seimwe yemabhuku ake anozivikanwa zvikuru "Golem"). Nzira yekuswedera pedyo neshongwe iri pedyo - Handizoisa pfungwa dzangu mupfungwa: kuMalaya Strana kune migwagwa yakakomba yakawanda uye masango emukati, tunnel uye ndima, uye zviri nyore kwazvo kurasika. Panzvimbo yeDaliborka, mugwagwa (zvakare kumusoro!) Unonditungamira kuenda kuZlatu mumugwagwa. Munguva yekare masayendisiti nevasingazivi vakagara pano - Meyrink akanyora pamusoro pavo zvakare. Kazhinji, ini handisi chikamu nemabhuku muPrague - Handigoni kunzwisisa chero chinhu chipi zvacho pamusoro pavo (zvinhu zvose zvinomiririra uye zvinokanganisa, haugoni kunzwisisa kuti kurota kwacho ndechipi, uko chokwadi chiripo), asi pfungwa yeGuta isimba zvakanyanya.
Zlata imugwagwa - kwete kunyange mumugwagwa, asi kuguma kwakafa. Ndinogona kufungidzira kuti pane imwe nguva pano yaive yakazara, yakasvibiswa, misi miviri isina kujeka yezuva yakapinda mumumvuri werima pakati peimba, uye usiku chete chiedza chemarara chaiva kusvika kumagumo emugwagwa chinogona kushanda sechinhu chinoshamisa, pasina kujekesa migwagwa. Migwagwa yakaunza pfungwa dzakaipa uye mifananidzo, asi zvino zvinoratidzika semusha wekunakidza zvikuru: dzimba duku, paunopinda, uchikotamisa musoro wako, wakagadzirwa nemarudzi akasiyana-siyana; zviyeuchidzo zviduku zvinowanikwa mumahwindo maduku: matayipi emapuranga, harmonica, makadhi akajeka uye nhoroondo dzekare dzePrague. Mitengo pano - oh-oh-oh, asi iwe unogona kutarisa kunakidza, saka ndinofungidzira kuti ndiri mu museum.
Bhiriji pakati penyika mbiri.
Charles Bridge anozivikanwa, ivo vanoti, akambova kunyange mugwagwa, kunyange zvazvo zvakaoma kutenda mazviri - yakaoma zvikuru. Zvichida kutaura, inobatanidza Old Place (Old Square) neChechi Country - zvikamu zviviri zviduku nevanoshanyira, asi vara yavo inoshamisa zvakasiyana. Imwe mhepo inofadza, yemusha yekodzero, "gungwa" rekare (zvinonhuwira zvechokoti inopisa uye waini yakawanda!) - uye kukudzwa kukuru kwekuruboshwe, Malostransky. Ikoko, mune Dhorodiki Dhoma, marble plazas uye dzimba dzakasimba, iyo nzira yatinotungamirirwa nayo pane imwe chikonzero inonzi "mapoka echechi classicism." Zvechokwadi, chimiro ichi hachipo, asi chakaendesa chinangwa chacho zvakarurama. Heino zvakare iyo yakakurumbira kedhedral cathedral yeSt. Witt, umo iwe unogona kudedera kusvika pfupa - iyo inotonhora inobva kune imwe nzvimbo pasi, kubva kumakuva. Kubva kune rimwe bhanga kune rimwe, vatasvi vanopfuura Vltava. Mune rimwe nerimwe guta kune mugwagwa umo munhu wose anoenda "kuona vanhu uye kuzviratidza ivo", vaudzei muenzi, venga rudzi rwemhando kana "kunaya" nzvimbo. Charles Bridge ndiyo yemugwagwa mumwe chete. Mumasikati kune nguva dzose "motokari yemotokari" pairi, iwe unomhanyisa zvakaoma, asi pano unogona kusangana nevanonyanya kushamisa. Somuenzaniso, murume akwegura ane mbudzi netambo. VaJapan vane makamera, vaItaly vane zvikwama zvemashure pamasana avo, maGermany ane thermoes - nemuchena fluffy mbudzi. Kana unofara mavara anofara aHal Krishnas ane rodhikiki. Vanenge vachinyanya kuimba nziyo dzavo uye kutamba vachiita zvekutamba kuti kubva kuBridge kusvika kuChecker Square vanoteverwa neketani yekuziva - uye ini ndinosanganisira. Apo vanhu vakanaka, zviri nyore kwazvo kuti vabatanidzwe zvakare mukufara, pasinei nekubatana kwechitendero.
Kutarisa kubva pasi, maonero kubva kumusoro.
Czechs dzinoenda kunorara mangwanani, dzinomuka zvakare kare, uye mazororo hazvisi zvimwe. Ndinosvika 9 am paWenceslas Square, kufamba-famba pedyo neCall Place, kuyambuka rwizi rukuru rwePrague phiriji ... Vatariri vanovata mushure mekurara usiku, uye ndinoziva guta racho. Uye pamangwanani ano anoshamisa, mumhepo iyi yakachena yechando, iye neimwe nzira inomuka zvikuru zvikuru pamusoro pangu. Shongwe imwe neimwe, tsvina imwe neimwe inokwazisa uye, sezvazvakaita, winks pakurangana kwezano: Zvakanaka, hama, pano iwe neni tiri voga-uye Vltava anotsemuka.
Kutarisa nzvimbo yakadzika yakavakwa pedyo neAldle Square, taitofanira kukwira mushongwe weKapa Hall. Chaizvoizvo, kune vanhu vose vanogara ikoko kune elevator, asi pane chimwe chikonzero ndakasarudza zvakasimba kufamba netsoka. Iyo yakareba yakanyanyisa kumirira - yakawanda chic maonero kubva kumusoro. Imba imwe neimwe, mumugwagwa mumwe nomumwe, mapoka evanhu vanofambira, makedheni uye makereke - zvose pamberi peziso rako, mapeji akave akajeka eguta racho.
Mangwana mangwanani echando. Kana masikati achange avharwa, chando chinotanga kusungunukazve - kunyange munguva yechando kutonhora pano kazhinji kunodonha pasi pe zero, uye kunyange iyo -10, iyo yakawira kunze kwekugoverana kwedu, inowanikwa, isu, saka, takava nerombo. Ndinosarudza kutarisa guta kubva kumusoro, kubva kune rimwe gungwa. Pafurati yose nenzira imwe neimwe iyo ichimhanya uye ichimhanya, hapana paunogona kungomira uye kumira, funga nezvako, fema mweya wemumwe munhu, asi ikozvino guta rakadaro. Uye iye zvino iye achiri kurara, mutengesi mumwe chete anoyeuchidza zvishoma nezvishoma anokwevera tereyi yake ku Old Castle Stairs. Kudarika, ndinoona kuti anokwira sei. Masitepisi akareba uye anotsvedza, asi kune matenga edzimba, mavara akanaka, akadzigadzirwa zvakanaka - zvakakosha kukwira kunorema. Uye pano iwe unogona kufungidzira kuti mazana emakore apfuura akanga asiripo uye iwe wakanga uri munguva yakapfuura - nenzira, zviri nyore! Nhandare yeimba yakakwirira ndiyo maonero akanaka kwazvo kune vanoda vanoda nzvimbo. Kubva pano unogona kuona rwizi - imwe nzira uye imwe, mabhiriji, makomo. Izvo zvinenge zvisina motokari uye zvinotenderera, asi kamwe kamwe bhiza rine ngoro rinogona kuoneka pasi. Dzimwe nguva kunyange chiratidzo chemugwagwa chinowanzosvika: "Chenjerera, ngoro yebhasi!"
Chikamu cheCzech.
Sezvo uchinge wakasimuka uye wakagadzira chido, nemasikati unosvika pedyo ne cafe. Kubva pamuedzo wokutanga kubata kuruma, zvinova pachena kuti unoda kudzidza mharidzo zvakanyatsonaka: mitengo yakadzika inosangana, uye hausati wambocherechedza kuti uri kuraira inenge imwe yenguruve iwe pachako. "Chikamu chechiGiriki chiduku" Ndakanga ndichibatanidzwa chaizvo nemakidhi mashanu echesi nemiti yemiorivhi minomwe - pasinei nedzimwe sangano tine zviyero zvinopfuura chiyero ichi, asi-zvishoma. Czechs kazhinji haifungi nezvezvinhu. "Mucheche" saradi yakatakurwa mune yakakura mashizha ehodhi, iyo yatinowanzozadza tisati tasvika kwevaenzi - iyi ndiyo inoshumira. Uye saizvozvo mune zvose. Saka zvinobatsira zvikuru kuenda kune dzimwe nzvimbo dzekutengesa uye zvinyorwa zviduku nekambani duku: imwe saladhi uye imwe inopisa inogona kugoverwa kuva vatatu. Uye iwe unouya woga - uye iwe haufaniri kusarudza chero chinhu, iwe haugoni kudya zvose. Uku kusarura pamubhadharo wemudumbu!
Shopaholic.
Zvechokwadi, ndiri kuenda kune dzimwe nyika kwete kuenda kunotenga. Ndiri kufarira munhau, unyanzvi, maumbirwo, mhepo ... Vanhu, shure kwezvose. Asi pamberi pezvitoro zvePrague hazvigoni kumira. Pamwe, ndakarwisa mimhanzi nemabhuku. Mabhuku, zvechokwadi, kana ane zvinyorwa, zvino muChirungu - mune mabhuku makuru makuru mabhuku mune dhipatimendi rinokosha. Pakati pacho, heino mavada angu - maawa eCzech vafoto. MuCzech Republic kune dzakawanda zvinoshamisa photo artists, inozivikanwa ne "zvakasiyana-siyana zvevanyori vashoma." Ndakaudzwa nezvekuvapo kwavo neInternet. Iko mune maitiro avo chimwe chinhu chakakosha, chinofungidzirwa uye chinodikanwa, - chinoparadzanisa ivo kubva kuhuwandu huzhinji. Unyanzvi hwavo hwakawanda huri mutsvuku uye huchena, kune mimwe mvuri kupfuura chiedza, uye muviri wemukadzi usina kupfeka unowanikwa mune imwechete ye-nostalgic haze sedenga, mabhiriji uye nzvimbo dzomuPrague. Muviri womunhu unoratidzwa mune zvakawanda zvakafanana nemasvingo ekare, mavara, shongwe.
Uye zvese kamwe-kamwe, zvinopesana nechekupedzisira kweiyi yose ye halftone austerity - iyo bacchanalia yemuvara kubva Jan Saudek. Uyu ndiye muumbi anonyanya kupenga uye, achitonga nekunetseka kwake, iye achiri chibertine! MaAlubbvu ake - kunze kwemashoko mashomanana epasi rose "- kunyange zvimwe zvisingakanganisi kuratidza shamwari (izvi hazvigone kupiwa kuna amai vangu kana hanzvadzi yangu duku), asi hazvibviri kubvisa maonero. Uye muzvinhu zvose-muzvinhu zvose zvinoshamisika, muzvinhu zvose zvinoshamisa-chimwe chinhu chisinganzwisisiki Czech. PaIndaneti, basa rake rinoparadzaniswa, rinokambaira nzvimbo uye maBloggi pane imwe nguva isingafungidziki. Muzvakafanana nezvemimhanzi, Prague iguta rekare. Kunyanya mukurumbira pano ndeye Dvorak uye Smetana - tsika yemadzinza enyika. Basa ravo rinosanganisira zvikwata, izvo zvinoitika manheru oga oga munharaunda dzose dzeguta racho. Ndakaenda kune zviitiko zvakadaro nemufaro, asi mabhenchi echechi akaoma kwazvo, mumachechi ematombo ari kutonhora zvikuru, uye vatasvi vane zviso zvemweya vanoisa makumbo avo pane zvakakosha pamabvi eminyengetero. Zvinofadza kuti vanhu ava pamba, munyika dzavo, vanoenda kuchechi?
Muchitoro, mukurangarira kweguta racho, ndakasarudza dhi nechisimba chinonzi violin yechiJudha uye dzimwe nguva manheru ndinotarisa nemifananidzo yePrague iri pasi pemitambo inoyevedza inogomera uye iyo.
Hapana hovha here? Zororo iri!
Uye chii, chaizvoizvo, mazororo makuru? Somuenzaniso, Gore Idzva? Zvinoshamisa kuti, muCzech Republic haisi kupembererwa. Ndiri kureva vanhu vemunharaunda - havakagamuchirwi nenzira iyo, usiku hupi hunokonzera kushamiswa kuduku. Asi vatashanyi vanonakidzwa munzira yose - nemwoyo wose, nomufaro, zvakasiyana. Zvakananga kune Zuva reGore Idzva kune zvakawanda zvingasarudzwa: dhizha rekufashisa, bhadha rinokonzerwa nehusipa rakanyorwa pasi pemakumbo ayo kana kuti cafe yakakurumbira apo Franz Kafka pachake aiva (Kafka, zvisingaiti, akanga asina kunaka - cafe haisi yakanaka chaizvo). Izvo zvinoita uye pane imwe nzvimbo yekunamatira kumapoka evanhu vanofamba-muimba yedu duku yakanyatsogadzika yekutakura imba inofadza yakakwira kusvika mambakwedza, ine mhuka muchando-bhomba uye kutanga kwemabasa emoto. Panguva yemazuva panguva ino yezororo - zuva reSt. Sylvester (Gore Rutsva). Uye, zvirokwazvo, Krisimasi. Kusvika muPrague kumagumo aDecember kana kutanga kwaJanuary, iwe unogona kutarisira kusasiyana uye hupfumi hwemisika yeKrisimusi. Yese Old Town Square uye Wenceslas Square yakareba yakashongedzwa nemigodhi yematanda nemhando dzose dzezvinhu - zviyeuchidzo, "waini yakabikwa", sweets, matoyi, mifananidzo. Vaimbi vanotamba, mabhiza emabhiza anotasva - mweya wemitambo yakakurumbira inonzwika, kunze kwebasa revanhu - "inouya mazhinji" vatashanyi.
O, imwe nguva zvakare.
Zvichida, iyi ndeimwe yemaguta iwayo apo usati wava nenguva yekuita zvose zvakarongwa. Kana iwe unongoda kudzokorora kufamba kwako nekudzoka, unoda kuziva zvakawanda nezvePrague. Nokudaro, neimwe nzira, ini ndinoda kudzoka zvakare, uye kazhinji zvakare ... Somuenzaniso, handina kumbokanganwa kuti ndingazvidemba sei chivande chakavanzika cheTn Cathedral - nguva yose iyo inoratidzika kuti shure kwe "caramel" yakavharwa yakavanzwa chinhu chikuru uye zvirokwazvo Gothic. Handizivi kana pane chimwe chinhu chakakosha, kana chakanga chagadzirirwa kubvira pakutanga. Dare rekereke rinogona kudarika kubva kune rumwe rutivi, unogona kufungidzira hukuru hwayo, huchidzosa musoro wako, asi yakanyatsoomeswa pakati pemigwagwa yakakomberedzwa kuti iwe haugoni kuwana mufananidzo wakazara. Ndinogara muine rudo rwechivande rwekutakura kweguta rePrague - havazivi kuti "nguva inotyisa" chii. Uye kune mitsara mitatu chete yematare. Matanda nemabhazi zvinomhanya zvakakwana panguva yakatarwa, uye nzira inogona kudzidzwa pamusana. Pane imwe yemitambo ndakasvika pedyo nePowder masuo masuo, uye ivo vakaisa rima pasi pemvura inonaya kana chechando chakanaka, ndokuzora ganda muzuva.
Anenge zuva rimwe nerimwe, pamwe chete nemazana evashanyi, akamira pasi pemaawa anozivikanwa zvikuru ekudenga-Orlo, uye akamirira kuti zvifananidzo zvive zvishongedza kuti vatange kufamba. Pane imwe nguva awa izvi hazvina kuitika, ipapo chikamu chakaziviswa nejongwe rinofara-kuchema, sechiratidzo chokukunda pamusoro peipi-uye vose vakanga vanyarara. Uye ini handina kumbokwanisa kuona zviri kuitika muchokwadi. Ndakawana gwagwa rakatsetseka, uye pamusoro payo - chinhu chinoshamisa chechikafu: mabhanhire emakona ekukwirira, nharo-ruffled accordion, zviratidzo mumugwagwa wezana remakore asati apera, mafurai ewaini yekare uye teapots, mahombekiti ehomwe. Asi kwemazuva ekare aifanira kubhadhara zvakawanda. Saka akabva, achigomera. Ndaikwanisa kuongorora chetatu chezvioni zvinoshamisa, izvo zvinoedzwa kuti zvitaure mune zvakasiyana. Ini ndinenge mazuva ose ndakagara perenanda yekafa yakanaka uye ndaidya makeke anonaka nemichero matsva - nemitemo yedu yose iyo runako inopiwa zvisingabatsiri ("zdarma" muCzech), uye kukanganisa kusanyanya. Saka nguva dzose aigara, achitarisa achitsvaga kutenga ma album albamu, kukanganwa nezvebasa uye zvose pamusoro pezvose. Uye zvakadaro ini zvino ndinorangarira Prague nguva dzose kana ndichitarisa muchikwama changu chekurasikirwa nokukurumidza-ipapo zvinenge zvose zvinodhura kupfuura zvedu, uye chikwereti, maererano nazvo, chinowedzera zvishoma nezvishoma. Ndakaona nzvimbo apo vashanyi havafambi-maonero ePrague kubva kune imwe, nzvimbo dzakashambadzira uye nzvimbo, iyo iyo "Lemonade Joe" yakashambadzirwa. Hazvizivikanwe kana ndichikwanisa kuzviona zvekare, nokuti vagari vemunharaunda vari voga vari kuda kuvhara ndima. Uye ini ndinogona kuvanzwisisa: rudzi urwu-hongu, chii ichocho? Mhando dzose dzePrague! - Ndinoda kuva nega ndoga.