Mukuru guru guru Alexander McQueen

Guru guru guru Alexander McQueen, munguva yehupenyu hwake anozivikanwa nevamwe vake pamwe nevatsoropodzi genius, avo vakanakisisa muchizvarwa chake. Achisiya, haana kurega kutaura.

Mhinduro kumubvunzo wokuti "Sei?", Sei vanobudirira, vane tarenda, vakakomberedzwa neshamwari uye nevamwe vanoremekedzwa chaizvo vanofunga kuputsa nehupenyu, nemaoko avo pachavo vachisimbisa chisungo pamitsipa yavo, panguva imwechete iri pamusoro uye hazvizivikanwi kune ani zvake. Hapana munhu anogona kuziva zvakanga zviri kuitika mumweya wemakore makumi mana anonzi Lee McQueen (iyi ndiyo yekutanga, zita rokuti "imba" yemuumbi), kubva kune hupenyu hwake mumwechete mumwe wevatatu vasikana zvikuru kupfuura vose vakasara. Muna 2007, akarasikirwa nemusikana wake, muse, mukadzi uyo akambotenda kwaari semufananidzo chaiye - Isabelle Blow. Akabva asiya kuIndia, achisiya zvinhu zvose, akapinda mukati make kwemwedzi, uye mushure mokudzoka, akaunza kuunganidza ku nyika, "Mhandara Yakagara Pamuti." Zvakazoitika kuti izvi ndizvo zvaaigona kuita iye zvino. Gore rakapera Tete Dolly akabva.

Zita iri rinozivikanwa chete neboka rakapetwa revamwe vomuumbi mukuru Alexander McQueen, asi kwaari iye muridzi wake aireva zvakawanda. Mukadzi muduku uyo ​​asina kurasikirwa nehombiso imwechete ya Lee. Uye musi waFebruary 2, 2010 mai vake vakadamwa Joyce McQueen vakafa. Kubvira pakufa kwaMcQueen musi waFebruary 11, murume chete ane usimbe haana kubvunzurudza mubvunzurudzo nemwanakomana wake, wegore ra2004, kune rimwe remapepanhau makuru eBritain. "Iwe unotya chii kupfuura zvimwe zvose munyika?" "Fira pamberi pako." "Ndinokutendai, mwanakomana." Chii chaunonyanya kuzvikudza? "Newe." Mashoko aya anoyeukwa nevanyori venhau, shamwari dzinorangarira mumwe: "Aida kuuya kuna amai vangu uye kunwa tiyi nema biscuits paakanga agere pafafa naye." Kurasikirwa nevadikanwa kazhinji vanotsvaka rubatsiro kubva kune vadiwa. Asi murume uyo aidiwa naLee McQueen, akamusiya mwedzi mitanhatu amai vake vasati vafa.


Simuka iwe pachako

Mukomana ane makore matatu, akazora pamapuranga emapuranga mumapfekete ebhora. Mwanakomana wevatyairi wetekisi, muduku pane vose vatanhatu, akaberekerwa mune rimwe rematunhu akashanda eEast London. Iko magetsi, magetsi, mutyairi wetekisi zvakanakisisa - awa ndiwo matarisiro aimumirira. Kudzidza pachikoro chemahara chevakomana nehutsinye huri hutsinye hahukwanisi kuchinja kuti ive nani. Chinhu chete chaibatsira ndechekuti gare gare yakabatsira muumbi mukuru Alexander McQueen kuti arambe achiti: "Mutemo mukuru ndeizvi: nguva dzose gadzirira kugamuchira hondo ... Unofanira kunge uine simba rokumira iwe pachako. Uye kunyange kana iwe usina kukunda, iwe uchiri kutamba! "Pashure pokunge apedza chikoro, akaedza mabasa mazhinji: kubva kumutumwa pane tsika kune mutengesi mune mabhuku ekudhindisa mabhuku. Kusvikira rimwe zuva, Amai vaAlexandro vakaona rugwaro pamusoro pevarume vakagadzira uye vakarangarira mifananidzo yevana pamadziro. Muchikwata chevarume veSavile Rou vakangotora vadzidzi. Pano, mumasangano apo vakagadzira micheka yeMikhail Gorbachev uye Prince of Wales, zuva rimwe nerimwe kwemakore matatu vachigadzirisa jekete nemabhurukuro, akadzidza chinhu chakakosha zvikuru - kugadzira, kucheka nekuremekedzwa kwebasa. "Kwakanga kuri kudzidzisa kwakanakisisa. Kubva ipapo ini ndinoda chikwata uye ndinofunga kuti hapana chinhu chakakosha mubhizinesi redu. Mumaoko angu, kunyange iyi pret-a-porter, zvose zvinoitwa nemaoko. Ndicho chikonzero vanotarisa zvakadai seHut Couture. "


Zvino paiva naMilan . "Ndaida kuona kuti vanoita sei mufashoni chaiye. Kuona nekudzidza. " Mudzidzisi aiva Romeo Gigli, uyo McQueen, akasiyana nemafungiro evanhu vazhinji, akafunga kuti mutungamiri pakati pevarimi vekutanga kwema80. Zvadaro-iyo yakakurumbira Central Saint Martins College yeArt uye Design, uko McQueen, maererano nerunyerekupe, kunyange asati asati auya akauya nemashoko akashinga okuti iye somudzidzisi. Nyaya yake yekuunganidza yakatengwa zvizere uye pakarepo mushure mekuratidzwa kwe £ 5,000. Icho chaiva chiyero chakadaro chakapiwa nababa vake, muteveri mukuru wemadzimambo, eccentric editor yeBritish magazini Tattler Isabella Blow.


Kumutsa mafungiro

Kuva nekunakidza uye simba guru mune fashoni yenyika, Isabella aigara achiudza munhu wose kuti muumbi mukuru Alexander McQueen akafanirwa kuva muvakidzani anozivikanwa zvikuru wezana remakore rechi21. Kutarisira kwake kwakanga kusingogumiri pamashoko ekudaidzira. Nenguva isipi McQueen akatamira kune imwe imba yakasiyiwa paBelgrava Square, iyo Yakamuwana iye neshamwari yake Philip Tracy. Pano nhoroondo yezita Alexander McQueen yakatanga. Zviratidzo zvekutanga zvakakonzera kuitika kwebhobho yakaputika. Izvi zvaiva zvishamiso zvisingakanganwiki maitiro, kudzorera nyika yose pachikwata. "Pandinenge ndichiunganidza, ini ndatova nemufananidzo mumusoro wangu ... Ndinoona zvinhu zvose, zvakakwana kusvika pakugadzira-up, entourage uye, zvechokwadi, mimhanzi. Chero chipi nechipi chinoshandiswa muhupenyu chinoshamisa, uye fashoni inofanira kufadza! "Mushure mokutanga kwemwaka munhu wese aida chaizvo kubuda purogiramu yake. "Vanhu vasina kumbofarira mafashoni vakazadza iyo gallery sezvinoitwa pamakorikete ematombo," mapepanhau akanyora. "Nihilism", "Ndezvisikwa", "Enda kumusango" -kuunganidza zvakabudirira zvinotevera pashure peimwe. Uye munguva pfupi - nhau dzinonakidza: iyo inochengetedza bourgeois House Givenchy - chiratidzo chechiFrench chinoshandiswa - chinopiwa mumaoko ema "punk anovhenekera", mune zviratidzo zvekuti motokari dzaiendesa mberi pachikwata, kunaya kunaya, mabhoti akatevedzwa peputi kubva pfuti dzemapfekete pamapfekete evanhu, uye anoshandiswa sevakafa mhashu.


Chiratidziro chake chekutanga chepaFivenchy House chakasangana nechisimba nehurumende yeFrance. McQueen haana kutevera nzira yekodzero yematambudziko akadai, achienzanisa chimiro cheGivenchy, asi akazvipa zvaanoona. Uye yakanga isina chokuita nechitarisiko chaAprirey Hepburn, uyo akafananidza imba yekuti imba yakawanda. Akatora mukana uye haana kukanganisa. Nenguva isipi muGivenchy akaisa mutambo wevashandi vaimbofarira vamwe vavakadzi, vanyengeri vaifanira kuramba vakanyarara.

Panguva iyoyo, kaviri anova mugadziri wegore muBrithani, anoronga kuratidzwa kwakanaka mumatare eMoscow, achimanikidza vateereri madhayamondi kubva kuCader kuti apinde mugwagwa rekutanga kweupenyu hwake. "Ndaive nechido chokuvaratidza izvo zvavasingadi kuona: nzara, ropa, urombo," McQueen akabvuma. - Iwe unotarisa zvose izvi mafashoni-chikamu mumagalazi madema uye iwe unonzwisisa kuti havana ruzivo pamusoro pezvinoitika munyika. Regai vaone kuti vanovengwa uye vanosemesa-zvinondikodzera zvakakwana. Ndichaziva kuti zvimwe mamwe manzwiro akavamutsa. " Mushure mekudziviswa kusingagoni kuparadzana neGivenchy, tarenda yaMcQueen yakangowana simba idzva.


Akataura nenyika yezvikamu zvake. Mipfeko yake yakanga ichidanidzira pamusoro pesara uye mamiriyoni evanhu vakafa muAfrica, nezvekufa kwepfupi kwepasi, chii chaiva musha wake, pamusoro pekusava nehanya, umo vose vaine mire - vakapfuma uye varombo. Asi vatengesi vefashoni, vatengi, vemataundi emaguta vaingoona zvipfeko zvechimiro chisingazivikanwi, chiuno chakamanikidzika, machira uye zvakaoma zvikuru, hazvibviri kudzokorora rutivi. "Anofunga semadhiabhori, asi anocheka semutumwa," vakanyora pamusoro pake.

Kubwinya kwekunaka kwemajasi ake, kuratidzwa, imwe neimwe yadzo, kufanana neshuvha inopinda mumvura yakadzika yegungwa (yakagadzirwa nemuumbi wezvakanaka), akacheka akaoma uye akareruka, anonzwisisika kune wese anenge akagadzirira kunzwa, pfungwa dzose dzakasara kwatiri kubva Alexander McQueen. "Ndichangofara chete apo ini ndisiya kuita tsika," Lee akambotaura ...