Exomo, chiton, peplos, gimatiy, chlamys, hlena - ose aya ndiwo mazita emapfeesti ekutanga munhoroondo yevanhu. VaIjipita vekare, vaGiriki neTane vakashongedzwa nemucheka mucheka. Somuenzaniso, munguva yaHomer, mutsara weganda wakanga wakabatanidzwa muhafu kuitira kuti rwonzi rwupfuure parutivi rworuboshwe. Nguo yacho yakanga yakashongedzwa nekunaka, yakashongedzwa, yakasungwa. Edza kubereka chimwe chinhu chakafanana kumba - iwe uchawana chiton chaiye.
ROPE, NEEDLE NESHEARS
Apo chipfeko chakashongedzwa chakatsiviwa ne koreenaya, vashandi vepakutanga vakatanga kubvisa masira pamwe nechemberi uye kumashure. Mukati rezana remakore rechigumi nemakumi mana, maoko akazotanga kuparadzana, asi izvi zvinonakidza: zuva rimwe nerimwe vaifanira kusvetura kana kusunga, uye manheru kuzoba kana kusunungura-zvimwe zvisingaiti kubvisa mupfeko. Uye apo chete pavakagadzira chipfeko chepfeko, maoko akaiswa mukati mehombe "yekufa".
Munguva yeMiddle Ages zvipfeko zvakave zvakakura kwenguva refu, nechitima, muviri wakanyanya kwazvo, chiuno - pasi pemazamu. Sleeve, zvakanyanyisa kuderedzwa, dzakaguma nebhero yakafukidza chigunwe chechiko. Kana vakawedzera pasi, vainge vakashongedzwa nehuto kana kuti appliqué kubva mucheka. Yakanga iri kuburikidza nemapurasitiki uye urefu hwehupfeko iyo kirasi yepamusoro yevatenzi vayo yakanga yakatemwa. Uye pano tarira kunaka kwakanaka, uchida kuti tambo yakasimudza ichitaridzire kutenderera kwayo, inoedza panguvo itsva: iyo bodice yakasimba inobata chifuva, chiuno chakasimbiswa nebhanhire rakanyorova, uye muchiuno marefu brocade yakaisvonaka, moire, velvet, satin yakafukidzwa uye yakafukidzwa zvikuru.
Mukati yezana remakore rechigumi nemana chiya chechikadzi chakasimbiswa ne-corset nesimbi gaskets. Zvakaisvonaka kusvika kune zvakanyanya, chiuno chakashanduka chikafu chinopisa. Kuwedzerwa kwemafashoni kwaive kwakakura kwema-collar collar. Apo rama rakatanga kupera (muzvokwadi, kazhinji kubva pakushayikwa kwe okisijeni nekuda kwekodset yakasimba zvakasimba), yaifungidzirwa kuti muchipfeko ichi, inoratidzika sekunaka uye yakanakisisa.
Pakazosvika makore gumi namapfumbamwe nemazana makumi maviri, Pauro Poiret akakokera madzimai kuti apedzisire uye asingatombogoni kurasa corsets. Mheto yakareba yakatanga kusvika pamakumbo emakumbo, chiuno chakasimudzwa pamusoro pechiuno, mhemberi dzainge dzakapararira munzvimbo yechipfuva chembambo uye yakamanikana pamakumbo, yakava yakafanana kunyange. Chido chekuita kuti zvipfeko zvipfeko zvingangoita zvakakonzera kukanganisa kwakagadziriswa mukugadzirwa kwepfeko. Saka, somuenzaniso, yakave yakagadzirwa kudzvora pamwe neoblique kuitira kukodzera kwakasimba kwechimiro. Gare gare, mune zvakakosha zvekuvhara, vakadzi vacho vakazarura makumbo avo kunyanya. Mukuwedzera, mushure meHondo Yenyika Yenyika uye kuchinja kwehupfumi, vanhu vaitomanikidzwa kutungamira mararamiro anoshanda, iyo iyo yakawanda yenguvo refu yaingova chipingamupinyi chikuru. Nguo yacho yakatanga kusiya zvinhu zvishoma uye zvishoma, uye kutora kwakatanga kutaridzirwa zvakanyanyisa uye kunyatsofungisisa. Ivhu rekugadzirwa kwezvitsva yakagadzirwa ...
HAPI PASI KUTENDA, KANA NEGAMOR
Kutaura zvazviri, vakadzi vaiwanzopfeka kupfeka mabhanhire madema mashoma kare. Ichokwadi, pane zvikonzero zvakakosha zveizvi. Kazhinji zvaive kuchema. Kana zvimwe zvipfeko zvaisava kwete nekuda kweurombo. Chirikadzi, vatengesi vezvitoro muzvitoro, vasikana vakura vari voga ... Nenzira yakati, vakanga vasina kubatana nekufara. Yakanga yakasviba mumhepo here? Dzimwe nguva, hongu. Apo Queen Victoria weEngland akanga ari chirikadzi, nyika yose yakapinda mukati mavo maiva nenguvo dzokuchema. Kunyange zvakadaro, mbatya yakasvibiswa yakasviba yakazouya mberi kwenguva yakareba.
Gabrielle Chanel akazvigadzira semuenzaniso, muna 1926 uye akazivisa pachena kuti fashoni haigoneki kunze kwekushongedza zviduku. Usiku huno hwakabva hwava chiratidzo chechic chikva, uye chinenge chifananidzi chakafanana cheFrance seEiffel Tower. Chinhu chiduku chitsvuku chakanga chisiri chakanaka chete: Chanel akarasikirwa nemudzimai wake. Mushure maro, hafu yenyika yakafuka mukuchema. Mavara anofara uye pastel emukova mukuru akakanganwa.
Ko chimiro chekugadzira chakaita sei? Mucheka - muslin, semicircular cut, mirefu mashoma machena. Hapana zvakanyanyisa: hapana kopira, hapana mabhodhi, hapana mahwendefa, hapana frills. Iyo yakarongeka chete tsamba yemaparera pamutsipa, zvishoma nezvishoma zvinoderedza kuoma. Chanel akanyatsozvitaurira kuti vatengi vakawanda vanoziva kutarisa pamusoro pepfeko, asi chete inogona kusimbisa pasi. Akarangarira kureba pamusoro pemabvi kuti asagamuchirwe: mabvi ake akaita saiye sechikamu chakaipisisa chemuviri wechikadzi. Saka akavafukidza pakati. Nguo itsva iyi yaive yakawanda. Zvibvumira iwe chipfeko chakadai ikozvino chakanga chiri panguva yemukadzi chero upi zvake - kunyange uyo ane mari yake yakawanda kwazvo. Iwe unongoda kugadzirisa iyo wardrobe nehombodo imwe chete kuti unzwe mafashoni uye unokwezva zvakapfeka.
Vazhinji vakagadzira mushure mokunge vaisa mimwe miedzo yakawanda nemashira maduku maduku. Zvose zvakashandurwa: kureba kwemaoko, mutsara wejasi, urefu hweketi, trim. Zvisikwa zveKoko mukududzirwa kwaKar Lagerfeld zvakashandurwa kuva kabati-duku nechepasi rakatsva kana kunyange ... chipfeko chena. Nguvo yeganda kubva kuDiori yakadzorera mukadzi uyu kuMiddle Ages. ZHivanshi dzakaputira chipfeko chakakomberedza shawl. Emanuel Ungaro akawedzera chiuno chiuno, achisimudzira chiuno, uye chirefu chakareba chechipfuti. Valentino akaisunungura kubva mumucheka wakaita. Yves Saint Laurent akaita shanje uye akashongedza mutsara wekona nemitsvuku yakajeka yemidzimu yakagadzirwa naSarvador Dali. Uye nguo yakasviba yakaisvonaka yakakurudzirwa naGaultier: machira akanga akaputirwa pamuviri, uye yakadzika kumativi ose akaisa pasi pechipfuva, achimubudisa pachena.
Asi izvi zvinonakidza: munhoroondo yose yefashoni uye chimiro, chero upi neupi hwekutsauka kubva pakushandiswa kwepakutanga kwakadzingwa zviduku zviduku zvakasvibiswa zvisiri izvo. Yakava chinhu: bhizinesi, cocktail, manheru, asi yakaguma kuva yepasi rose, uye naizvozvo, hutsva hutsva hwaidiwa kuti udzorewo chipfeko. Mukuwedzera, nehupfeko yakashandurwa, muridzi wayo ainge asina kukodzera, achiyeuka nevamwe - kuisa kakawanda kwaive kakangova nengozi.
Nguva imwe neimwe ye fashionista haina kuneta ne "kudzokorora" kusikwa kweCoco. Zvimwe zvifananidzi nechinhu ichi zvinogona kuitwa munguva pfupi. Heino mukadzi akapfeka jekete iri pamusoro-uye anogona kutumirwa kuhofisi. Akawedzera chipfeko chacho nehombodo yemirasi uye bharoki neminehwe - jasi rakashandurwa rikava chifukidzo chakanaka chemasangano. Nenguva ino, unogona kutendera mutsvuku mutsvuku mutsvuku nemapinhose akajeka. Kana iri kutonhora, chikwata chinopinza nemashizha marefu chichaponeswa, asi chinenge chakaonda uye chakasiyana nemuvara. Kana kuti pamusoro pepfeko - shandi yehudzi yekubata kukuru. Chero chisarudzo chisina kukodzera chinogona kuonekwa senguvo imwe chete, iyo yakafukidzwa pamusoro pematehwe akaoma. Nenzira, iyi nguva Fashion House Chanel yakadzikisa masaga emakamuri matatu uye yakapa makirasi yeimwe nzira - mbatya tsvuku tsvuku, yakajeka uye yenyuchi. Shades: tomato, karoti, korori, geranium, tsvuku yakasvibiswa, yepepuru, burgundy ...
KUTENDA KWENYIKA IYI
Uye chii chaunofanira kupfeka zuva rimwe nerimwe? Iyi nguva yechando, vazhinji vanozivikanwa mafashoni emidziyo muvharobe vane tsvina, inotyisa sarafan (iwe uchawana chimwe chinhu chakadai muDeha neBenetton), iyo inogona kupfekedzwa nemichena yakaisvonaka isina mhosva uye yakaisvonaka sexy tight-yakakodzera turtlenecks. Uye haifaniri kupfekedzwa kwete vechidiki bedzi, asi kuvakadzi vemazana. Izvo zvinodikanwa kuti bhese yaiva nekorosi duku isina makona akapinza, maduku maduku, uye pakanga pane makapu pamashira maduku maduku. Sarafanchik mune chero zvipi zvayo haabvumirwi kunyatsokodzera mufananidzo wako. Chinhu chose chinofanira kuva chakakura, pasina uye zvachose chisina hutano. Makokorati emwaka ino anopawo chipfeko neketline pasi pemutsipa nediki shoma collar (Mango, La Redoute).
Kana tichitaura nezvemafashoni, DKNY inobvumira chimiro chechiLatini - chimiro chechidiki chakajeka uye chakakwirira. Gucci aida gasi-shati nemifananidzo yakajeka, yakashongedzwa nemasikisi esirivha, akapfekedzwa nehudyu refu uye "patchwork" zvinyorwa. Miuccia Prada inopa mikati mishoma, shangu dzakagadzirwa satin - nguo yepepuru, tsvuku, yerineni - nepamapfudzi ose mumutauro wemakore makumi mana (usasatora tambo yegoridhe yenguvo nemunhu weSinequanone). Ferre akaratidza micheka yakaiswa mumucheka werineni, mutsvuku uye mavara (anenge akaita seAnastasia ne S'Oliver uye Alain Manoukian). Karl Lagerfeld akarayira kushandiswa kwezvinhu zvakakwirira-tech: black silicone, sirivha yebwe, holographic sequins. Mavara anogamuchirwa: maruva, machena, sirivha, bhuruu, bhuruu, pink. Somugumisiro - an extravaganza ye-cosmic mood mumweya wemakumi emakumi matanhatu: michina michi-mazai ane butterfly, akapfeka nemhando ye bat. Zvose izvi zvinotsanangurirwa nhoroondo yefashoni uye chimiro muzvipfeko. I-inofanirwa-ine zvigadziro ndeye bhanhire rakakura rinosimbisa chiuno. Zvakakodzera kutarisa kuMonSoon naKaren Mylen - muchaona zvipfeko zvakafanana.