Kutanga uye marudzi e-corset


Christian Dior akamboti: "Pasina corset, hapana mafashoni." Ichi chinonyangadza chimbudzi chinhu chakanyaradza kubva kuvadzimai, mukudzoka kupa runako uye kukomba kwehero. Hazvina mhosva kuti vakamudzinga sei kubva kumusoro kwefashoni, nguva dzose akadzoka achikunda. Uye semugumisiro, ndiyo yakave yakanyanya kushandiswa fetish of a wardrobe ladies.

Kutanga uye marudzi e-corset. Zvinyorwa zvekorset zvakaonekwazve kune 4.5 zviuru zvemakore akapfuura pamhenderekedzo yeAegean Sea. Vagari vomuchitsuwa cheKrete vakaomesa mabhandi avo echekete. Nokuda kwesimba guru, mahwendefa esimbi akaiswa mukati mavo. Varume vakadaro maitiro akadzivirirwa kubva munondo wevavengi, vakadzi vakapiwa nyasha.

Mundima yakaoma yeSpain yezana remakore rechina re XV yekushushikana kwaive chirevo chehupenyu hwevanhu vose. Kumakumbo echikadzi emuviri haana kuyeuchidza pamusoro pevatadzi, vakadzi vacho vakasungirirwa pachavo musimbi yakasimba corsets, kurema kwayo kunogona kusvika 25 kilogram! Iron carapace yakaita chidimbu zvachose chakavhara-kwete chidimbu chechifukidzo, uye chiuno, maererano nemiti, chakanga chakadonhedzwa pamwe kusvika masentimita makumi mana.

Yakawanda yehanduro ye corset yakaonekwa muItaly muzana remakore rechitanhatu. Yakagadzirwa nehuni nesimbi inopinza, yakava yakaisvonaka uye yakanaka kudarika mumazuva ekare. Iyo yakawanda yakashongedzwa nemashizha uye mabwe anokosha, corset yakatanga kupfeka pamusoro penguvo, ichiratidza upfumi hwomuridzi wayo. Panguva imwecheteyo, madzimambokadzi wechiFrance Catherine de 'Medici akaisa mutemo wechiuno chechiuno chekudzoka kwake - 13 masendimita (inopfuura 33 masentimita 33). Mudzimai uyo akapfuura chikamu chepamutemo aisagona kuonekwa kunyange kumatare. Uye kana corset yakasimbisa chiuno nemasendimita makumi matatu nemasere, zvakajeka kuti iwe usati iwe - munhu akakwirira.

Pakati pezana remakore re XVII, corset yakanga isisati yakanyanyisa, asi yakasimbisa yakakwirira yakaburitsa chifu uye mahudyu akapoteredza. Panzvimbo yedare uye huni kwakauya whalebone. Iyo yakasimbiswa kumativi ose mumuviri, ichiita chimiro chakanaka. Chimiro cheFrance chinenge chave nzvimbo yepamusoro kwenyika. Corset inogona kuve yakapfekedzwa nevanokudzwa. Vakataurirawo mutsva mutsva-kusimbisa chiuno kusvika pachiyero chakaenzana nekubatwa kwemutsipa weidi.

Muzana remakore rechi18 ndiyo nguva yekuchinja mhirizhonga muhupenyu nemafashoni. Munhu mukuru wevanhu, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, akakumbira kudzokera kune akareruka zvakare uye akasiya zvinhu zvisiri izvo zvezvokupfeka. Nehurukuro yevhenekeri, Europe yakatsvairwa nefashoni yemapfeesti-chiton. Asi kare kare pakutanga kwezana remakumi mana nezana remakumi mana nezana remakumi mana nezana remakore rezana rehurumende yeFrance yakazviwana zvakare pachigaro choumambo, ichidzokazve yakarasikirwa nehupfumi, uye vakadzi vanogadzirisa.

Kubvira panguva iyoyo, chimiro chevakadzi chichinje marongero ayo ega yega yegore. Bhokisi racho rakabva rasimuka, rakagadziriswa, rutivi rwechiuno rwakabva rwakanyongedzwa, ndokudzoka kunzvimbo yacho. Izvo zvinoenderana nekuchekwa kwezvokupfeka uye kuchinja mune zvakanakisisa zvekunaka kwevakadzi. Mune makore makumi manomwe ezana remakore rechina, rumwe rudzi rwekorset rwakagadzirwa - kureba kusvika muchiuno. Kunyanya kuderedza dumbu rezasi, chimiro chakanga chakasimbiswa zvakasimba zvokuti chimiro chakafanana neshoko S. Kwakange kusina mubvunzo wekukomberedza kana kudya imwe chidimbu. Nhanho yekutanga kune yekuregererwa kwekorset yaive kuchinja kwemafashoni mambo muParis, Paul Poiret, muna 1905 akashandura magirasi pamhando yehembe dzevarume. Pasi pezvokupfeka izvi, chiedza chakakosha uye zvizere zvitsvuku zvebhora zvakapfeka - "corsetts".

Kuwedzerwa kwekupedzisira mukududzirwa kwekodset kwakapararira muma1950, apo chimiro chitsva chinotaridzika, chakagadzirwa naDior, chakadzoka fashoni kune "chiuno chechiuno". Iyi nhungamiro yakatora kwemakore gumi chete. Mune dutu "60s" vana vemaruva "kunyange bras raifungidzirwa" harori inoparadza mukadzi ". Corset, yakaita sokuti, pakupedzisira yakabuda kushandiswa kwemasi.

Asi zvinhu zvose zvakachinja zvakare muma1980. Mufananidzo wemukadzi ane chiuno chakasimba chakasungirirwa, chaimbofananidzira kuchena nekuteerera, kamwe-kamwe chakava chimiro chekuda zvepabonde.

Kubvira ipapo, corsets haisi kunze kwefashoni. Zvinongova zviripo zvakafanana naiye, kubva nenguva nenguva zvichionekwa pamagwenga.