Nhoroondo
Nhoroondo yemweya inotanga kubva kare kare. Vanhu vave vaona kwenguva refu zvinhu zvinoshamisa zvekunhuhwirira zvinogona kuita kuti mafungiro akanaka. Munguva dzekare, panguva yemitambo, vapirisiti vevanamwari vechihedheni vakapisa uswa, midzi yemaruva nemaruva mumakungu. Vakatenda kuti utsi "hunonaka" hunogona kuisa vanamwari pavari, uyewo kuumba mamiriro ezvinhu asingazivikanwi uye kusakwanisa kwezviri kuitika. Zvisinei, rusenzi yaivewo yakanakira kunze kwetemberi.
Vanhu vokutanga kugadzira zvinonhuwira chikamu chetsika yavo vaiva vaEgipita. Vakabvisa miviri yavo namafuta uye mafuta anonhuwira nekunhuhwira kwekinamoni kana uchi. Uye izvi zvipfeko zvakanga zvakadhura zvokuti zvaigona kungozivikanwa kwaari. Mukadzikadzi anonzi Cleopatra akarayira kuti adzore zvikepe zvezvikepe zvake nemweya, kuitira kuti kunhuwa kwaMwari kunzivise iye kusvika.
MuPezhiya, pakati pevapfumi, yaifungidzirwa kuti ndiyo nzira yakanaka yekukura zviputi, jasmine, maruva nemaruva matsvuku muminda yavo, kuitira kuti vashandise kuti vaite rusenzi. Iko kune vaPersia kuti isu tine chikwereti chekugadzirwa kwemaji rose. VaGiriki vekare vakaedza kuita zvinyorwa kubva kunhuhwirira dzakasiyana uye vakanyora mapeji avo, vachitaura kuti zvii zvinomera zvinogadzira zvinonaka. Uye vaRoma vakaveura misoro yavo, mushure mokunge vakazora mafuta pamusoro peganda. MuMiddle Ages, zvinonhuwira zvinonhuwira zvakashandiswa kuvhara zvinonhuwira zvisingafadzi zvakaonekwa nekuda kwehutano hwakachena. Yaiva iyo iyo midzimu yakasvibiswa yakagadzirwa pamusana pezvinwiwa uye mafuta anokosha, anozivikanwa kwatiri kusvika ikozvino uye anoshandiswa muzvinonhuwira.
Nguva yakapfuura, asi zvinonhuwira zvakasiyana-siyana zvakaramba zvichive zvakakurumbira. Iyo inozivikanwa kuti Napoleon Bonaparte aifarira chaizvo kunhuwa kwejasmine uye violets. Uye akazoshandura munhu wake korona kwezuva kusvika kusvika pa12 malita emafuta. Uye yakanga isiri nyore nyore. Mambo akatenda kuti kunhuhwirira kunofadza kunomubatsira kunyatsogadzirisa kurwisana. Uye, kunze kwe, mumakwikwi ehondo akashandisa zvinonhuwira zvekusaporesa. Nenzira, muna 1804 akatanga nhengo yekutanga yezvinonhuwira uye yezvokuzora uye akaumba mvura inonhuhwirira, iyo yaakadana chimbuzi.
Baba vemazuva ano zvinonhuwira ndiFrancois Coty. Akange asiri "bvudzi" rakanaka, asiwo mutengesi akanaka. Aiva nechinangwa chekutengesa zvinonhuwira muzvigadzirwa zvakanaka, uye kwete muchengeti apothecary vials. Akatangawo kuyananidza kunhuhwirira kwechisikiro nekunhuhwirira kwepakutanga kwekutanga. Saka muna 1917 kunhuwirira "Chypre" kwakanyorwa, iyo yakaunza mukurumbira weKoti. Mazuva ano nzira yehutano inobvumira kushandisa zvinyorwa zvinoshamisa zvinonhuwira. Mukutengeswa kunouya nhamba yakawanda yemweya, uye kutora "zvavo" kunogona kuva kwakaoma zvikuru. Asi isu tichaedza kunzwisisa izvi zvakasiyana.
Sarudza zvinonhuwira
Paunosarudza kunhuhwirira, munhu anofanira kutanga ayeuka kuti munhu mumwe nomumwe ane "makemikari" akasiyana. Izvi zvinoreva kuti iyo midzimu yaunofarira "musikana", inogona kunyanya kunhuwa paganda rako. Perfume inofanira kusarudzwa mumwe nomumwe. Kupa apa mamwe mazano kunenge kwakaoma, asi kune mamwe mimwe mitemo.
Nyanzvi hadzisi kukurudzira kuuya kuchitoro nekuedza zvose. Hazvibviri kuti nenzira iyi ichakubatsira iwe kuita sarudzo yakanaka. Iwe unogona kuedza zviri mukati memakore matatu. Kana zvisina kudaro, iwe "futa", fhiringidzika uye usatomboita zvachose zvaunoda.
Sezvo uzvisasa nemweya, iva nechokwadi chekufamba navo kwechinguva, kuitira kuti kunhuhwira kuzarurire zvachose. Kunze kwekuti, paganda rako, rinogona kuchinja zvishoma. Uye iwe unoda kufunga nezve "chitima", nokuti achakufambisa iwe zuva rose.
Zvinyorwa zvinyorwa zvinonyorwa pamutemo wetatu: chikamu chekutanga (kana kumusoro) chinyorwa, chinyorwa chinokosha (kana chinyorwa chemoyo), uye nheyo yepamusoro (kana kuti "loop"). Mushure mokushandisa zvinyorwa izvi zvishoma nezvishoma zvinoshandurana, pamwe nekunhuhwira sezvazvaiva "kuvhura".
Zviri nani kuti uchengetedze mavhenekeri akawanda ehumwe mafungiro uye panguva dzakasiyana. Nenzira, iwe unogona kuverenga tsanangudzo mumagazini, mabhuku ekutsvaga kana mabhuku. Iko kunowanzopiwa tsanangudzo yemhando yezvinonhuwira: rudo, rudo, kunatswa nezvakadaro. Zvichida vachakuudza kuti kunhuwa kunosarudza kuumba chifananidzo chei.
Uyewo, hazvisi zvisinganzwisisikwi kubhadhara kuvhara uye zita. Kazhinji kuumbwa kwemafuta (kunyanya ruvara) kunoenderana nemunhu wacho. Kudzidzira kunoratidza kuti zvakaoma kusangana nemafuta emicrorus mubhokisi rakasviba.
Kana iwe waifarira mamwe mafuta, yeuka muiti. Zvichida iwe uchadawo mafungiro ayo matsva, sezvimwe zvinhu zvakaita sechinhu chimwe chete kana muumbi anogona.
Tinoishandisa nemhando
Iye zvino mazwi mashomanana pamusoro pekushandisa. Midzimu inoisa mukati memakumbo nemakumbo, mushure mekunze, mu decollete uye pasi pemabvi - zvino kunhuhwirira "kunouya muupenyu" nezvose zvaunoita. Iwe unogona kuramba uchigunzva vhudzi rako (kunyanya zvakanaka pamakona akachengetwa mvura yegungwa) kana mbatya (dzakanaka chete - dzinogona kuramba dzakashata). Zvakakosha kuyeuka kuti nhamba yemweya inobva pane yaunenge uri. Hazvina kukodzera kuva nekunhuhwirira kwakanyanya mune imwe nzvimbo duku. Uye kazhinji kuputika, kurova mumhino, asi kunakidza mune zvose, kunhuhwu kunoonekwa sechimiro chakaipa. Uye usakanganwa kuti jira rinosimbisa kunhuhwirira. Saka, kana kuchipisa mumba kana mumugwagwa, shandisa midzimu zvakanyatsonaka, zvisinei kuti munhu wese achakutiza.
Kushandisa zvinonhuwira zvakafanana, pakupedzisira iwe unoshandiswa nayo uye rega kuzviona. Uye iwe haugone kuziva kana iwe wakasimba kana usina simba. Nokudaro, kunyange dzimwe nguva mweya inofanira kuchinjwa kuitira kuti iwane zvishoma kubva kunhuhwira yaunoda. Asi zvakadaro, chokwadi, unogona kudzokera kwairi.
Chengetedza zvinonhuwira zvakanakisisa muhomwe, zvichida munzvimbo inotonhorera. Asi zvakanaka kana ukaisa mabhodhoro patafura yekupfeka muimba. Chinhu chikuru - kuti chakanga chisina kupisa. Mushure mezvose, kubva pakupisa uye chiedza chezuva, mweya inowedzera nokukurumidza zvikuru - izvi zvinoratidzirwa nekunhuhwirira kwakajeka uye marara. Iwe haugoni kuchengetedza mabhudzi muimba yekugezera. Ikokowo kazhinji kutonhora kunoshanduka, uye izvi zvinounza zviri mukati ma bhotela akanaka kuti zvirege kuora mwoyo. Kana iwe usingazivi kuti iwe unowanzotambura, usatenga mabhodhoro makuru. Mvura inonhuhwirira haigone "kurarama" nokusingaperi, saka ichava nenyasha kana zvinonhuwira zvichisara, uye zvisingambove "musango."
Uye usakanganwa kuti mazuva ano zvinonhuwira ndiyo nzira yekuzvitaura. Inogona kuchinja zvikuru maitiro aunoona nevamwe. Midzimu inogona kukuita iwe unofadza mumaziso evamwe, kana kuti inogona kuparadza zvachose. Saka, yeuka kuti mukushandisa mvura inonhuhwirira, sezviri mune zvose zvine chokuita nechitarisiko chako, panofanira kuva nerudo, kuenzanisa uye ruzivo. Hazvisi zvechimwe chinhu chavanotaura kuti kugadzira mufananidzo nemubatsiro hwekunhuhwira ndiyo unyanzvi hwechokwadi.
Mitauro yePerfumes
Kune marudzi akawanda ezvinonhuwira. Zvisinei, chiitiko chekusiyanisa mapoka makuru anotevera.
Citrus zvibereko. Nokuda kwekugadzirwa kwavo, mafuta anobva kumonia, mandarin, orange, mazambiringa, bergamot nemimwe michero yakafanana inoshandiswa. Kunaka kwakadaro kunowanzova chiedza uye chitsva.
Floral. Nezita, unogona kufungidzira kuti hwaro huri hwemavara: rose, carnation, lily, narcissus, violet, lily yemupata, jasmine nevamwe. Midzimu yakadaro inowanzova yevakadzi uye saka yakakurumbira.
Wood. Iyo inonhuwira huru sandalwood, rose bush, patchouli, cedar, vetiver. Inowanzobatanidzwa nemashoko ebhuruu iris, myrtle uye musk. Midzimu yemhando iyi yakanyanya kuoma.
Ferns (magirazi ewaini) . Zvakakosha kuti miti yekare haina chokuita nemweya yemhando iyi, uye iyo inonzi mazita ezvinonhuwira Fougere Royale. Yakanga yakagadzirwa nekunhuhwira kwehusi itsva (saka inonhuwira yakagadzirwa nemidziyo coumarin, yakashandiswa mukugadzirwa kwemagetsi). Kazhinji idzi midzimu ine tart vegetative flavor. Kumarin inowanzosanganiswa nemanzwi e geranium, lavender, huni, bergamot uye masaki emouki.
Shipry. Zita reboka iri rakabva kune zvinonhuwira "Chypre" naFrançois Coty, pamusoro pezvakanga zvataurwa kare. Inobva kunhuwirira kwemouk moss, iyo iyo yakawedzerwa manotsi ezvinonhuwira-labdanum, patchouli, resin, sage, bergamot.
Ambreous (oriental, kana oriental) . Midzimu yemhando iyi yakajeka uye yakasimba, inofungidzirwa manheru. Iyo inonhuwira neupfu, vanilla, sinamoni, zvinonhuwira, uyewo inosanganisira izvo zvinonzi "mhuka dzezvinyorwa".
Leather. Iri boka rinowedzera zvinonhuwira zvevanhu. Iyo inonhuwira zvikuru: juniper, birch tar, utsi, kupisa huni, fodya.
Chimwe chezvinhu zvakasiyana-siyana zvevhenekeri zvinosanganisira nhamba huru yezvikamu. Mukuwedzera, kune dzimwe mhando. Somuenzaniso, michero, bhuru, marita, zvinonhuwira, aldehyde . Iyo yekupedzisira (aldehyde) imakemikari, iyo inoumbwa nekunhuhwirira kwemavara. Muenzaniso unonyanya kukurudzira wemafuta anldehyde Chanel No. 5.
Uyewo, mavhenekeri akaparadzaniswa kuva maitiro zvichienderana nehutano, izvo zvinokanganisa kushivirira kwezvinonhuwira. Iyo yakakwirira iyo yeperesenti, iyo yakanyatsogadzikana iyo inonaka, zvishoma inotarisirwa kana yakashandiswa:
- Perfume (zvinonhuwira, zvinyorwa) - kuongororwa kwe20-30%.
- Perfume mvura, mvura-zvinonhuwira (eau de parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Esprit de parfum) - inokwana 15-25%.
- Toilet mvura (eau de Toilette) - inokwana 10-20%.
Pamusoro pezvinonhuwira, zvinonhuwira, nhoroondo yemweya, zvinyorwa uye mazwi pamusoro pemweya inotaurirwa uye yakanyorwa zvakawanda. Asi zvakajeka uye zvakanyatsotaura pamusoro pemweya yeCoco Chanel: "Perfume isingaoneki, asi isingakanganwiki, isingasvikiki, yakashongedzwa. Anoparidza kuonekwa kwomukadzi uye anoramba achiyeuchidza iye paakaenda. "